Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
